What Grit Belt Should You Start With? A 2×72 Grit Progression Guide

One of the most common questions new knife makers ask is:

“What grit should I start with?”

The answer depends on what you’re trying to accomplish.

Removing a lot of steel?

Cleaning up bevels?

Preparing for hand sanding?

Every grit has a purpose, and using the wrong one can waste time, shorten belt life, and leave you chasing deep scratches that should have been removed much earlier.

---

Start With the Coarsest Grit That Makes Sense

A common mistake is starting with a grit that’s too fine because you’re afraid of removing too much material.

In reality, coarse belts remove material faster, run cooler, and often leave a cleaner surface because they spend less time rubbing against the steel.

Choose the coarsest grit that allows you to safely complete the operation.

---

Recommended Grit Progression

While every maker develops their own preferences, this progression works well for many knife-making projects.

Grit	Primary Use
36-60	Heavy profiling and stock removal
80	Establish bevels
120	Refine bevels and remove deep scratches
220	Finish grinding before hand sanding
400+	Surface finishing and handle materials

The goal isn’t to use every grit you own.

It’s to remove the scratches left by the previous grit as efficiently as possible.

---

Don’t Skip Too Many Grits

It’s tempting to jump from a 36-grit belt straight to 220.

Unfortunately, the deeper scratches left by coarse belts take much longer to remove than most people expect.

A reasonable progression saves time because each belt removes the scratches from the previous one instead of fighting them.

---

Know When to Change Belts

Many people keep using a belt long after it’s stopped cutting efficiently.

As a belt dulls, it generates more heat while removing less material.

If you notice yourself pushing harder just to get the same results, it’s probably time to replace the belt or move it to lighter-duty work.

A fresh belt is often faster—and cheaper—than spending an extra hour fighting a worn one.

---

Coarse Belts Don’t Mean Rough Knives

Some beginners avoid coarse grits because they think they’ll ruin a blade.

In reality, every finished knife starts with aggressive material removal.

The trick isn’t avoiding coarse belts.

The trick is removing the scratches they leave before moving to the next grit.

That’s why a consistent grit progression is so important.

---

Don’t Chase Scratches—Track Them

One of the easiest ways to know when you’re ready to move to the next grit is to use Dykem layout fluid.

After finishing with one grit, apply a thin coat of blue or red Dykem over the entire bevel before switching to the next belt.

As you grind, the new grit removes both the Dykem and the scratches left by the previous grit. When all of the layout fluid has disappeared, you can be confident you’ve removed the deeper scratches underneath.

If you don’t have Dykem, other layout fluids or permanent marker can work, but make sure whatever you use goes on very thin. Thick coatings can bridge over deep scratches and give you a false indication that they’re gone.

This simple trick can save a tremendous amount of time and helps prevent discovering deep scratches after you’ve already moved several grits finer.

---

My Typical Grit Progression

For most carbon steel and stainless steel knives, my grinding process typically looks something like this:

• 36 or 60 grit for profiling
• 80 grit to establish bevels
• 120 grit for refinement
• 220 grit before hand sanding or surface finishing

Your exact progression may vary depending on the steel, finish, and belt manufacturer, but the principle remains the same:

Don’t move to the next grit until the scratches from the previous grit are completely gone.

---

Final Thoughts

Choosing the right grit isn’t about following a strict formula.

It’s about using the right tool for the job.

Starting with an appropriate coarse grit, progressing logically, and replacing worn belts when necessary will save time, improve finishes, and make grinding more enjoyable.

Master your grit progression, and you’ll spend less time fixing mistakes and more time making knives.